Avenida Corrientes in Buenos Aires is known as ‘the street that never sleeps’ as well as the theatre district. The portion of Corrientes that runs from Callao to 9 de Julio is a hive of activity. As the song by local band Memphis La Blusera goes, when the lights come on, swarms of people come to and fro, catch a play, and end the evening with a slice of pizza and a glass of Moscato wine. This encapsulates the spirit of this very porteño avenue.
The starting point
The walk starts at the intersection of Corrientes and Callao Avenues, near the Callao Station of the Subte B Line. Don’t forget to look out for the stars on the pavement honouring renowned local artists.
The 1600 block
The 1600 block is chock-full of interesting stopping points.
La Opera Café, established in 1928, sits right on the corner. It opens from 7 am to 1 am every day and stays open 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays.
Heladería Cadore’s gelato frequently makes it to the top 10 world’s best gelaterias lists. I may be biased here, but I believe Argentinean gelato is on par with its Italian cousin. Of all the gelato I’ve tasted in different countries, none came even close to ours, which we’ve learned to make from our Italian ancestors.
1928 was a good year for opening cafés in Buenos Aires, and El Gato Negro is one of them. The aroma of spices and coffee envelops you gently as you enter. You may want to stay forever.
If you’re in the mood for pizza, you can do worse than ordering a slice of fugazzeta (sliced onion and oodles of melty, bubbly cheese) at Banchero and eating it porteño-style at the counter.
Teatro Presidente Alvear and Teatro Astral are two of the leading theatres in the country for plays and concerts.
The 1500 block
Visit the lobby of Teatro General San Martín for its mid-century modern design, marble-clad structural column, and its murals. TSG hosts FIBA, the international theatre festival of Buenos Aires.
Kentucky is a pizza chain that started in 1942. This business model is a recent thing; it didn’t start out as a chain.
The 1400 block
Pop into La Giralda for their hot chocolate and churros, a classic combo beloved by all porteños. Or coffee and medialunas, the favoritest (is that even a word?) combo of all.
Catch a film at Cine Lorca, opened in 1968.
Look out for the statue of Alberto Olmedo and Javier Portales, two iconic Argentine comedians.
The 1300 block
Founded in 1932, Güerrín serves pizza al molde (pizza in the pan) with a thick and spongy crust, a porteño classic.
The pizza at La Americana is pretty standard, but their empanadas are out of this world. My absolute favourite filling is the creamy humita (sweet corn).
Los Inmortales has a special place in my heart. My parents used to take us there when we were little. We always ordered provolone and mushroom pizza. I treasure those happy memories.
If it’s a coffee and a pastry you’re after and a trip back in time, head to Confitería La Pasta Frola, founded in 1936. Ouro Preto (opened in 1947) takes you to a bygone era in Buenos Aires.
The next two blocks are unremarkable except for the two theatres, Multiteatro and Broadway.
This walk ends at the Obelisco, the emblematic monument erected in 1936 to mark the 400th anniversary of the foundation of Buenos Aires. It is a very popular photo op for the ‘gram.
Please note the McDonald’s across the street from the Obelisco, which has become part of popular culture and a recurring meme. Crowds gather here to demonstrate against the government (all of the administrations have had their fair share of demonstrations against them, except the military junta) and to celebrate sporting victories, like the 2022 World Cup. The restaurant has been vandalized enough that now the police install temporary interlocking metal barriers every time there’s a crowded event.
Practical tips:
You can pay for public transport with your credit card or alternatively buy a Sube card and top it up with cash.
Experience the intensity of fugazzeta, a type of onion pizza invented in Buenos Aires by Juan Banchero. Even better, try a fugazzeta rellena stuffed with ham and more cheese than you can probably handle. But the cheese sweats are so worth it!
If, God forbid, you’re the victim of petty theft, head to the tourist police bureau at Corrientes 436. Look out for signs for Comisaría del Turista.
Enjoy the mix of architectural styles as you walk.
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