“Y’all should definitely check out the Czech restaurants in West,” the gentleman said. “The food is delicious. It’s worth the drive from Dallas.”
We had struck up a conversation with an older couple at Central Market’s food court. Although they made a few restaurant recommendations, this one stood out, and I added it to our upcoming Texas Hill Country road trip, which was still at the planning stage.
West is a small town on Interstate 35 about 70 miles south of Dallas, and is known as the Czech Heritage Capital of Texas and the Home of the Official Kolache of the Texas Legislature. I had high hopes, and I wasn’t disappointed.
The kolaches are sweet, pillowy pieces of heaven introduced by Czech immigrants. The sweet variety is round with a fruity center, whereas the savory version resembles a roll filled with sausage or cheese, or both!
San Saba as base camp
The kolache stop fueled our Texas Hill Country road trip. As we drove down I-35, the monotonous urban sprawl gave way to an industrial landscape and seemingly endless flat farmland.
San Saba is the self-styled Pecan Capital of the World. A big but fitting statement, as pecan is the area’s main crop. We used San Saba as a base to explore the Longhorn Cavern, the Pedernales Falls State Park, and a local winery.
The streets of Historic Downtown San Saba are lined with character-filled,19th- and early 20th-century buildings. Some house boutiques, like the fantastic boot store, or cafes.
“We came on a girls’ weekend. Started on Friday. Hit all the wineries in Fredericksburg,” I overheard a woman with big hair and cowboy boots, waiting in line for coffee at Alamo Pecan & Coffee Co. “We went bow hunting, too.”
“Any luck?” asked the police officer also in line.
“She,” pointing to a friend, “and I got a doe.”
Longhorn Cavern State Park
Where can one experience absolute darkness and learn about Prohibition-era speakeasies? At the Longhorn Cavern.
We booked our tickets in advance and joined our tour guide, who introduced himself as a fourth-generation Texan from Houston and a secessionist. Texas was an independent republic between 1836 and 1845, and some people firmly believe the Lone Star State should secede again. I’d never met a separatist until this very moment.
We went down 52 stone steps into the Sinkhole, the cave’s entrance. An underground river and acidic rainwater created fantastic limestone formations over millions of years.
The cavern has a long and fascinating history. Prehistoric Texans used the cavern to trap large game such as mastodons and bison. The Comanche and early Texas settlers used it for shelter. Bat guano was mined to make gunpowder during the Civil War. In the 20th century, the Longhorn Cavern doubled as a speakeasy in the 1930s and a nuclear fallout shelter in the 1960s.
The Longhorn Cavern is the natural habitat of the tricolored bat, where it hibernates during the winter. We came across one hanging from a rock. I had never seen a bat so close up.
At one point, our guide turned off his flashlight to let us experience absolute darkness. It was oppressive, and a startling contrast to the glittering calcite crystal chambers we visited afterward.
Pedernales Falls State Park
Rivers like the Pedernales crisscross the Texas Hill Country. Most flow lazily, and people go swimming and tubing in them. However, flash floods are common, so it’s essential to be alert to changing conditions to avoid accidents.
Huge limestone slabs create a series of terraces and pools over which the Pedernales River flows placidly. The park offers hiking and mountain biking trails, as well as swimming and tubing opportunities.
We chose to simply observe the river flow over rocks and form pools, listen to it burble and gurgle, enjoy the peaceful surroundings, and fill our lungs with pure, clean air.
Texas Hill Country vineyards
A friend from Dallas introduced us to Pedernales Cellars tempranillo. Since we were in the area, we booked a tour of the cellar and a wine tasting. We spent a pleasant afternoon learning about and tasting Texan wines and enjoying the views.
Pedernales Cellars is one of the many vineyards you can find in the Texas Hill Country. The area’s limestone-rich soil, sunny climate, and altitude provide the perfect conditions to grow grapes such as Viognier, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese. The Texas Hill Country is the third-largest American Viticultural Area (AVA), and it’s worth a visit.
Antiquing in the Hill Country
The Hill Country is not just natural beauty; antique stores are part of its allure, too, and there is at least one in every town.
I loved combing through the shelves to find the perfect china bowl or the prettiest crystal glasses. All we need is time and patience to find that piece of nostalgia that connects us to our past.
Whether you’re looking for adventures, want to try new wines, or savor tasty treats like kolaches, the Hill Country has it all. Road trips are the best way to explore this diverse corner of Texas, one small town at a time.
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